Foundation and Primer

To begin you should always check whether your model has any skin infections or any allergies, this is so you don’t further irritate their skin and when working on another model, you don’t spread the infections. If they aren’t sure but the product starts to irritate their skin get it off immediately. Before working on the model you must wash the front and back of your hands. Finally make sure you have washes your brushes between people; you can use dry cleaning fluid as a brush cleaner.  

You also need to work out the skin type of your model to decide what foundation is best for them. This could be a greased based foundation, liquid, powder, oil free and moisturising foundations. You can also check for freckles and blemishes and take note where more concentration is needed. If you are expected to keep the freckles on show, use a tinted moisturiser rather than a foundation. 

The first step is to colour match your foundations to your model. You can use the back of your hand or a palette to mix the colours. Always use a spatula so you don’t double dip. For paler faces, you can mix Illamasqua white skin base with other foundations to create the right match. You can get skin with a yellower or pinker undertone, however when buying products its best to buy for a yellower undertone as this is much more complimentary on the skin. To test bring the colour across the face to the neck and blend out if you cannot see the foundation, you have an exact colour match. Once this is done, wipe off this patch so you are ready to prime the face.

There are two types of primers that you can use, Satin or matte. This is used to create a smooth base for foundation or can thin out thicker foundations.

When applying foundation use a round brush or a foundation brush. Whenever you take more foundation use a different side of a spatula and place onto either your hand or a mixing palette. Work the foundation into the brush. Have the face lifted towards the light, then warn your model that you are going start the application if their eyes are closed.

Start on the nose and work outwards using upward strokes, backwards/forwards and round motions. Work up the neck and make sure the foundation is worked into the ears, under fringes and into the hairline, using a buffing motion as you go. This will stop any harsh lines.

When working around the eyes use a smaller concealer brush and use a backwards and forwards motion and be gentle in theses areas.

Then to conceal, make sure the concealer is two shades lighter than the foundation, once again you can use your hand or a palette to mix. If the skin is quite red, Greens can be used to tone down the colouring. Dark can be taken down by peaches and yellow tones wile purple can lift colour.

When applying the concealer you can use a powder puff or tissue to lean your hand on so as not to damage the work you’ve already done on the face. Use a rounded brush or dome brush as they will help with blending the colours. Be soft around the eye, work right up to the lash line by lifting the eyebrow and working back and forth with the product. Dab the product so it isn’t too thick. To make sure you’ve concealed the right area, make the model look down so you can see where the shadow falls.

Next go round the nose and chin area where shadows fall. Then using a kabuki brush buff the concealer into the foundation and take note of the areas that need concentration so you can go straight to these when touching up.

Use a powder puff and translucent powder to set the make up and stop the products from moving around the face. Use a pat and roll motion. Make sure you powder everywhere including the neck. If there is too much powder use a big brush to remove the excess.