Dark Eyes and Lips

Consultation Notes
-Georgia- 18- Female
Combination Skin
Pale Complexion pink undertones
no Allergies to products

Equipment:
Cleanser, toner and moisturiser.
eye primer
Illamasqua’s Translucent Powder
Cream Shadow 
flat brush 
blending brush 
small rounded brush
Illamasqua Reflections Palette
Illamasqua Neutral Palette 
Liquid/pencil or gel liner
Optional- lashes 
mascara

Method:
1- Prep the skin using cleanser, toner and moisturiser.
2- For a smooth base use an eye primer. I used Urban Decay shadow primer potion. 
3- Powder under the eyes heavily, using a powder puff, so that excess eye shadow is caught.

4- Using Precipice from the Illamasqua reflections palette, press all over the lid to give shadows something to hold onto.

5- Choose a colour scheme that gives a mid, light and dark for the lid, inner and outer corners of the eye. I chose the Illamasqua Neutral palette. 
6- begin with the mid colour, mine being Vintage, and paint the whole lid, blending out with a blending brush. 
7- Using Obsidian (my dark colour) on the outer corners of the eye and under the water line, blend out to create a smokey effect.

8- Apply the lightest shade to the inner corners of the eye. I used Stealth.
9- Using your chosen liner, mine being liquid, draw along the upper lash line. A flick is optional.
10- Finish the eyes with either mascara or lashes.
11- Brush away any excess powder. 

Optional-
12. With an angled brush and colour matching your models brow colour, fill in the eyebrows. Sticking to the natural shape of the brow.

13. Using the lip rouge mini palette, an angled brush and colour LC010 I filled in the lips. 

How To: Contemporary Victorian Hairstyle (Inspired by American Horror Story)

Equipment:
Paddle Brush
Tail comb 
Curling Tongs
Hair Grips

Step by Step:

1. Using your tail comb, put the hair into a side parting, making sure there is lift at the root. 
2. At the front on the side of the parting, take two one inch sections, about the width of the curling iron and curl them all away from the parting. Do the same to the other side but with three one inch sections.
3. Secure these with hair grips.
4. Take the section just behind the front curls, with a width of about three curls (three inches) and curl it horizontally and downwards. 
5. Below that take a section about six inches wide and split into tow and curl both sides. 
6. Using three inch wide sections, now curl the rest of the way down in the middle of the head. 
7. With the hair left at either side, take sections and curl towards the face, securing all with hair grips. 

Creating an Up Do 
8. After the curls have cooled, remove the hair grips but leave the five main at the front. 
9. Brush through the curls to loosen them.
10. Trying to hide the grips as much as possible, pin the curls to the bottom of the hair.
11. make sure the hair looks like it has some lift by using the tail comb.
12. Take the grips out of the hair in the front, creating a wave against the head. Then pin in place.

Down Do
8. Take all of the hair out of the grips after the hairs cooled. Using an over and under motion, smooth the curls with a paddle brush. 
9. On the front sections of both sides of the partings, push the hair so it goes back and then curls back on itself.
10. Make the hair fall where you like, making the curls in the same direction clump together. 
11. back comb the roots for extra volume.

12. To finish off the look add a bit of shine spray.

Creating light scaring, using moulds how to attach to the skin

This practical involved using pre made wounds to create scars on the body. 

Consultation notes:
-Georgia- 18- Female
Combination Skin
Pale Complexion pink undertones
no Allergies to products

Need:
cleanser 
toner
baby buds
ProsAide adhesive
supra colour palettes
ultra foundation palette 
wound filler
bloods
Gelatine pre made mould
mould 
witch hazel
translucent powder

1. carry out consultation notes.
2. clean the area you are going to use with cleanser and toner. 
3. cut round the edge of the "wound" leaving some rough edges.
4. Apply ProsAide to the wound and to the area on the skin you are apply the wound. Wait until it all turns clear and tacky otherwise it will not stay in place.
5. Apply the wound to the skin making sure it is stuck on properly.
6. using witch hazel on a baby bud start working the edges of the wound into the skin so it blends. 
7. Then powder the "wound"
8. If the wound isn't the same colour as the clients skin, then you can use the ultra foundation as a base to match them up. 
9. using a spatula you can now add wound filler to the wound. 
10. To make the wound look sore you can use the supra colour palette on and around the wound.
11. you can also use the baby bud to apply fake blood to the wound. 
12. Finally it is optional to use a paint brush to flick blood onto the wound for a splattered effect. 

I'm not usually comfortable with prosthetics but I feel that this was quite a successful first attempt. If i was to re do this look I would make sure the wound is blended into the skin a little more, although I feel it could look like the skin is dry around the wound. 

Creating Estella

Consultation Notes:

Georgina 19 Female

yellow undertone 

combination skin 

Consultation notes:
Georgina-19-Female
thick, long hair
no skin conditions

During our assessment we were not only being assessed on our design and skills but also on our etiquette while creating these looks. We had to make sure we took note of our consultation notes of the model, our face charts, hair charts and any other pictures we referred to had to be put up on the mirrors. I also had my hair and make up kit set out ready and the bags put out of the way so my work area was clear. Finally I placed my wrap over my models shoulders and I was ready to begin. 

 To begin the make up I cleansed, toned and moisturised the models skin. I used my Illamasqua primer as a base. Using a mix of the ultra foundation palette and colour FS 38 and 070 from the supra colour palette I created a pale foundation base for the skin, making sure to take this down the neck and onto the shoulders, as well as onto the ears and blending into the hairline. Using my Mac 109 and the colour 101 from the blusher palette I contoured the temples, cheekbones, jawline and nose. Using my Illamasqua Brow cake in Gaze and my Kryolan 9806 I lightly filled in the brows. I then cleaned my Kryolan 9806 and used a mixture of LC007, LC005 and LC004 from the lip rouge mini palette to fill the lips. Finally using the Ben Nye palette I created the bruises on the eye, neck and shoulder, adding 8 hour cream I made the bruise look swollen. I then used a palette knife and red and purple from the Ben Nye Palette to create the "scratches". I then used Illamasqua translucent powder on the areas of the skin that only have foundation to set the look. 
I was really happy with how the the make up went for this look, I think it was a good way to show the character in a different light. This was definitely my favourite look to create so far in the gothic horror blog. 

To create the hair I first brushed through the whole thing to get rid of any tangles. I then sectioned off the front of the hair just behind the ears and clipped in place. With the remaining hair I put into a high ponytail. Taking 2  inch pieces of hair I then hair sprayed each section and then curled the hair. Taking one of the front sections and half it. Taking the bottom half, brush from the root and curl the very ends. Using a grip pin the curl next to the ponytail, making sure the straight part is slick to the head. With the top half curl the ends again, hoop the hair round and pin above the ponytail with the decorative clips. Finally hairspray the look to keep and stray hairs down. 

My model has a lot of thick, long hair and we had a time limit so it was hard to recreate the look exactly the same as they would do in the mid-late victorian era. I new it would take too long to curl the whole hair if it was down so I put it up first. When I added the curls from the side I think it gave the hair a new dimension and I like how it turned out in the end. 

I was happy with my over all look and think that it was a good representation of Estella during her marriage. 

Miss Havisham Continuity

Consultation Notes:
-Georgia- 18- Female
Combination Skin
Pale Complexion pink undertones
no Allergies to products

Consultation notes:
Georgina-19-Female
thick, long hair

no skin conditions

These are the images from my Final Assessment. To be successful at the continuity I had pictures from my first assessment as well as my face charts. I was happy with how my second assessment went and I feel that it is very close to my first exam. The only thing I was uncertain with is whether the skin colour matched the first and whether  I put enough dry shampoo on the roots of her hair. 

Miss Havisham First Assessment

Consultation Notes:

Georgina 19 Female

yellow undertone 

combination skin 

Consultation notes:
Georgina-19-Female
thick, long hair
no skin conditions

My first assessment went well and I made sure to take close ups of each section so that my next assessment is exactly the same. I made the look simple so that it would be easy to re create however still being true to the characters description. 

For the wrinkles I followed the face chart, using my mac 207 to blend them naturally into the skin. I wanted them to be noticeable but barely there. 

 The lips will be the hardest to replicate. First I put the duo on the whole lips and waited for it to dry. I wanted to keep the rips quite large so that they would be easy to copy the next time round.  

I need to make sure I take the white right into the root on the brow. I also need to keep the red in the same area and the lines in these exact places. 

When re creating the hair we have to make sure every step is exact. I parted the hair using the middle of her nose as a pointer. I also sectioned off the front just behind the ear so I would be able to repeat this exactly the next time. The rest was pretty simple, I just need to take into consideration where I put the dry shampoo, where the bun was and how long the curls are. 

I will re practise this look before my final assessment to make sure I can make the difficult areas an exact match. 

Estella Victorian Hairstyle

Consultation notes:
Georgina-19-Female
thick, long hair

no skin conditions

To create the hair I first brushed through the whole thing to get rid of any tangles. I then sectioned off the front of the hair just behind the ears and clipped in place. With the remaining hair I put into a high ponytail. Taking 2  inch pieces of hair I then hair sprayed each section and then curled the hair. 

Taking one of the front sections and half it. Taking the bottom half, brush from the root and curl the very ends. Using a grip pin the curl next to the ponytail, making sure the straight part is slick to the head.

With the top half curl the ends again, hoop the hair round and pin above the ponytail with the decorative clips. Finally hairspray the look to keep and stray hairs down. 

My model has a lot of thick, long hair and we had a time limit so it was hard to recreate the look exactly the same as they would do in the mid-late victorian era. I new it would take too long to curl the whole hair if it was down so I put it up first. When I added the curls from the side I think it gave the hair a new dimension and I like how it turned out in the end. 

Miss Havisham Step by Step Hair

Consultation notes:
Georgina-19-Female
thick, long hair
no skin conditions

Need:
pin tail comb
small curling tong
hairbands
hairspray
slidy grips 
back comp brush 
dry shampoo

health and safety checks:
-check scalp condition and if there are any infections. 

. put hair into a middle parting. 
. create a line from just in front of the ears sectioning off the front. 
. with the remaining back section, put into a mid/high ponytail.
. plait half of the ponytail, and twist the other half. 
. First create a bun with the twist and pin in place.
. Then wrap the plait around the twist and pin in place.
. taking 2 inch pieces of hair, brush and hairspray. 
. Using small tongs curl each section, curling towards the face.
. Using a back comb brush mess up some of the curls. 
. Dry shampoo the roots. 

Miss Havisham Step By Step- Face

Consultation notes:
Lucy-19-Female
combination skin
Yellow undertone
allergies to face paints

Need:

Ultra foundation palette

Supra colour palette

Elizabeth Arden 8 hour cream

Illamasqua Matte Primer 

Blusher palette

Illamasqua translucent powder

Illamsqua cream blusher libido

Duo 

Uspicy foundation, contour and concealer brush 

Mac 217 brush

Kryolan art 3806, 9930, 9720, 3606

Real techniques eyeliner 

Mascara wands

1.     Take off all make up already on the face for a clear canvas.

2.     Using the Illamasqua matte primer create a base with the kryolan foundation brush.  

3.     Mixing 2/3 ababaster from the ultra foundation palette and 1/3 070 from the supracolour palette, create a even base on the face, neck and ears. Make sure you work into the hairline as well.  Use the uspicy foundation brush. 

4.     Powder the face using a powder puff and the translucent powder.

5.     Contour the face using the colour 101 from the blusher palette. Use the Kryolan 3806 brush to create the lines and mac 217 brush to blend. Contour the cupids bow, the jawline, the cheek bone and down the nose. Use the kryolan 9720  Get the model to create wrinkles on the face by lifting the eyebrows, frowning and smiling, line these out with the kryolan brush. 

6.     Using the colours 081, Lila and BL10 and your finger as an applicator created a red bruised look under the eye. 

7.     To give it an extra lift add some 8 hour cream under the eye.

8.     Using Kryolan 3606 brush and Illamsqua cream blusher in libido, create a thin line under the waterline. 

9.     Put duo on the lips and leave to dry.

10.  While the lips dry, mix supracolour 070 with a tiny amount of 50a, using a mascara wand brush through the eyebrows and lashes.

11. Using your finger or tweezers, start to crack the duo on the lip to look like the skin is cracked. Then using the supra colour palette and colours 081 and 071 fill the open areas. If the colour is too strong use a cotton bud to dampen down the colour. Use the supra colour lila in the edges. To add a bit of shine add the 8 hour cream to the cut areas. 

Miss Havisham and Estella Face Charts

I have gained so much knowledge of Miss Havisham through my research so I began to create some face charts to decide what sort of look I wanted my own interpretation to have. 

For my first face chart I really concentrated on the ageing of Miss Havisham, as I wanted her to look old and withered. I gave her very contoured cheeks to show her thin figure and concentrated her wrinkles in the areas that show a sadder life such as frowning wrinkles on the brows. I also made her eyes look tired with a bit of red on the waterline and created shadow to make her skin look dropped. Although I like this face chart I feel that she may look a little too old, and she doesn't have many other features to duplicate the extreme detail in the novel. 

My second face chart was a quick attempt at an earlier Miss Havisham, I wanted to portray her at the exact moment life stopped for her. Her lips were painted but smudged, her cheeks had mascara tears falling down over the rosy cheeks. her mascara had gone onto her eyelids and smudged. Although I enjoy this sort of look I feel its more of a fashion interpretation of the character and I don't think historically the makeup would of been this strong therefore this was only an idea. 

My final and favourite face chart is more correct to what you would expect of the character. I have aged her, but quite naturally as it's a film rather than theatrical. I wanted the skin under her eyes to be quite red as if she had been crying and had little sleep. her lips are cracked as she doesn't drink a lot of fluid and may also bite her lips. This look has a lot more details but still isn't too complicated as it has to be easy to recreate. I think this is the design I'm going to do. 

For Estella I created two face charts, one as her natural self, which is a very simple Victorian look or her bruised self when in her violent marriage. I chose the bruised effect as I think it will push me to show my skills and I can learn about how to make the bruises look realistic. 

Miss Havisham Hairstyles

I also created three different options for Miss Havishams hair all that were historically correct to the times. 

My first options an early victorian style that uses plaits to frame the face. everything else is scraped back into a middle bun. To add a little bit of a Miss Havisham twist the hair won't be fully back, there will be a few stray hairs. I think this hair design is a little too simple and I don't think she would of done this for her wedding. 

 My second design had a mid victorian influence as there were curls along the back under the mid bun. There is plaits to frame the face that join into the bun. Although I enjoy this style I think it wouldn't be accurate to a style in the early victorian era. 

My Final design was my favourite as I think its the most historically accurate while also being appropriate for a wedding. with tight curls framing her face I think it is a more romantic feel and the rest of the hair is put up into an interesting bun. By half the bun being a plait and half being twisted it creates two different textures into the bun. Finally to make it more realistic to Miss Havisham's character there is slight greying at the roots and the hair is a little bit messy with stray hairs.